The Kuril Islands, a volcanic archipelago stretching between Russia's Kamchatka Peninsula and Japan, represent a centuries-old territorial dispute and a region shrouded in mystery for many Russians. This report delves into the current state of the islands, their history, and the lives of their inhabitants, offering a firsthand account of this strategically vital and geographically remote territory.

Geography and Accessibility

The Kuril Islands are situated in the Far East of Russia, forming an arc that separates the Sea of Okhotsk from the Pacific Ocean. The territorial dispute with Japan centers on four of these islands: Iturup, Kunashir, Shikotan, and the Habomai group. Reaching these islands presents a significant logistical challenge. While flights to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk are relatively accessible, further travel to the Kurils typically involves either a ferry or a flight with Aurora, the sole Far Eastern carrier. Local weather conditions frequently cause flight delays, with fog and rain being prevalent, particularly outside the July to September window.

Iturup and Kunashir: A Closer Look

The author visited Iturup and Kunashir, two of the larger islands, each with a population of fewer than 10,000 people. Iturup hosts the administrative center, Kurilsk, one of Russia's least populated cities, with approximately 2,500 residents. Contrary to expectations of a desolate ghost town, Kurilsk is described as a neat, remote port town with scenic surroundings. The town features renovated houses, new schools, swimming pools, and roads with storm drains, suggesting investment in infrastructure. The population is reportedly growing, though this may be attributed to the relocation of residents from dilapidated housing rather than an influx of new workers.

The Kuril Islands are legally equated to the regions of the Far North, entitling residents to bonuses, northern allowances, benefits, and early retirement. Despite these advantages, the cost of groceries is noted as being exceptionally high. Infrastructure includes a single gas station, a port, and a local Sberbank branch. The presence of an electric car charger for two vehicles highlights a modern amenity amidst the remote setting.

Natural Wonders and Historical Echoes

The islands' paved roads quickly give way to wild nature, making travel to remote areas or historical sites an expedition. The coastline reveals remnants of the past, including a grounded ship that became the subject of a lengthy insurance dispute. For years, a solitary guard resided in a nearby hut to protect the vessel, which was eventually left to decay after the owner received insurance payouts.

The beaches themselves serve as island roads, with GPS systems capable of routing along the sand. The shores are characterized by white cliffs of solidified pumice and volcanic glass. The sand's magnetic properties, due to the presence of iron ore, create unique "magnetic beach donuts" when a magnet is applied. The islands are also home to abundant wildlife, including bears, necessitating caution and the use of deterrents like a 130 dB "roarer" whistle.

Newer accommodations, such as the Kamuy Katan hotel on Iturup, offer views of volcanoes and are equipped with electric fencing to deter bears from accessing guest areas. The islands' natural beauty extends to geological formations like the "Eye of the Dragon" archway on Iturup, a result of volcanic activity. The landscape is marked by lava strata, hot springs, and unique formations described as "lava petals."

Historical Context: A Contested Legacy

The territorial dispute over the Kuril Islands has deep historical roots. The first official treaty between the Russian Empire and Japan in the mid-19th century designated the Southern Kurils as Japanese and the Northern Kurils as Russian, with Sakhalin as a shared possession. This arrangement proved inconvenient, leading to the Treaty of Saint Petersburg approximately 20 years later, which ceded Sakhalin to Russia in exchange for all the Kuril Islands to Japan.

The Russo-Japanese War and subsequent Japanese interventions in Soviet territories further complicated the situation. The indigenous Ainu population's status was largely unaddressed during these territorial shifts. Notably, Iturup Island's Kasatka Bay served as a departure point for Japanese aircraft carriers in 1941, initiating the attack on Pearl Harbor and Japan's entry into World War II.

During the Japanese occupation, airfields were constructed in strategic, often fog-shrouded locations. Bunkers were built into cliffs, and resources like sulfur were mined, utilizing Korean laborers. The Japanese also enjoyed the islands' hot springs. Many of these structures, including tunnels and bunkers, were later destroyed by the Japanese upon their departure.

Following Japan's defeat in World War II, the USSR launched a military campaign under the Yalta Agreement, gaining control of the Kuril Islands. This acquisition provided the USSR with strategic access to the Sea of Okhotsk and valuable natural resources. The Soviet Union subsequently began repopulating the islands with its citizens and fortifying the coastline, while displacing the Japanese population.

Post-War Developments and Modern Challenges

The post-war period saw the USSR renovating the islands and establishing new settlements. However, the disputed status of the islands emerged in the mid-1950s. While Japan renounced its rights to the Kuril Islands in the 1951 treaty, the treaty did not specify the recipient state. The USSR did not sign this treaty, and Japan disputes the inclusion of Kunashir, Iturup, Shikotan, and the Habomai group within the Kurils. Despite attempts to resolve the issue, no peace treaty has been signed between Russia and Japan, leaving the territorial dispute unresolved.

The islands have also faced natural disasters, including the devastating Shikotan earthquake in 1994. Yuzhno-Kurilsk, the largest settlement on Kunashir Island with a population of 7,000 to 8,000, has not been granted city status. The town's location was moved inland due to tsunami risks. While residential buildings appear relatively modern, the area includes a dilapidated Soviet-era diesel power plant and a Japanese-built plant from the 1990s. A significant portion of the settlement is occupied by military units, including border guards and tank divisions.

Infrastructure in Yuzhno-Kurilsk includes pickup points for online retailers like Ozon and Wildberries, indicating access to goods, albeit with longer delivery times. A "House of Friendship" built by the Japanese, intended for visa-free exchanges, now houses a hotel and cafe. The visa-free program has been suspended.

Gorny: A Symbol of Neglect and Renewal

The village of Gorny, once a military town built in the 1980s, became a symbol of neglect and poor living conditions, frequently featured in media reports. Following increased attention from bloggers and journalists highlighting the dilapidated state of its buildings, renovations have been undertaken. Houses have been updated with new siding, windows, and interior repairs, creating a stark contrast with remaining abandoned structures. The village's proximity to the Burevestnik airfield and a strategic bay underscores its military significance.

Despite improvements, challenges persist, particularly with the condition of courtyards and roads, some of which remain unpaved. The author notes that while the state is investing in repairs, the process is slow and requires continued attention. The presence of children playing fearlessly amidst the ruins and abandoned structures highlights a unique environment, though the risk of encountering bears remains.

Modern Development and Tourism

Recent developments include the construction of new educational facilities, such as the Admiral Pyotr Ivanovich Rikord Secondary School in Golovnino on Kunashir Island. This 1.2 billion ruble school, built in a village with a population of 153 according to the 2021 census, is located near the border with Japan. The school is equipped with modern amenities, including computer labs and 3D printers.

Tourism is emerging as a developing sector, focusing on the region's unique natural environment. The Kunashir Resort and Spa, situated in a coniferous forest at the foot of Mendeleev Volcano, exemplifies this trend. The resort utilizes hot mineral waters from the volcano and features stilted chalets and elevated pathways to minimize environmental impact. The island of Kunashir has fewer bears compared to Iturup, with estimates suggesting one bear for every three residents on Iturup.

The Unfolding Geopolitical Landscape

The ongoing territorial dispute between Russia and Japan has seen periods of limited engagement, such as the visa-free regime and the House of Friendship initiative. However, current geopolitical tensions have led to the freezing of these programs, with Russia rejecting proposals to reinstate the visa-free regime.

Despite the political complexities, nature continues to shape the landscape. The Golovnin Cliffs on Kunashir are actively eroding, with sediment carried by ocean currents to form new landmasses that gradually increase the islands' area. This natural process is slowly bringing Russia and Japan geographically closer, creating a land border over millennia, irrespective of human-driven geopolitical disputes.